Altiplano e Atacama 2001

Lonely biker in the endless Altiplano

Ascent on Cerro Caquella (5880m)

It's such a magnificent mountain, the Cerro Caquella, towering up at the roadside. Kyle and I can't resist to attempt a climb. The mountain isn't really indicated on our maps, but this doesn't hinder us to go for it. At 4560m we put up our improvised base camp. Sebastian will wait for us while we will be making the ascent. The night prior to the start, I hardly get any sleep. Too many things go through my head because this will be my first mountain climb of that kind. The total isolation of this region adds to my anxiousness, as there won't any possibility of an external rescue. During the climb, the mountain proves to be a huge pile of volcanic rock. But the ascent is going well. Just at some moments, large stones start sliding too much to feel comfortable. Other places need some firm grip and you have to keep a clear mind to not make the wrong step at the wrong place. Generally, you just need to observe yourself a lot, in order to prevent any signs of high altitude as this could compromise your ability to climb safely. We have started at 4.00h and arrived at the summit at 11.00h at an altitude of 5880m. Altitude record set for me! Kyle was already some hundred meters higher up. The altitude doesn't seem to affect me much and I feel still good. The visibility from the summit is amazing. You see mountain ranges at a distance of 250-300 km very sharply. I have never seen something like that before! The descent poses two, three tricky moments but we advance rather rapidly. What a feeling to get back to the tents at the end.

Sunset over Laguna Hedionda (4400m)

Sandy track at Laguna Honda

Pushing a 75-kg bicycle at 4700m, the tandem weighs even more

The road conditions in the Lipez Sud require some time to get used to... They range from good (possible to cycle) to very bad (you need to push) for some stretches. Pushing the bicycle proves to be very tough, as the bicycles dig themselves in the deep sand. Due to long distances between Campamentos (roadstops providing water and food), I had at one time 24 liters of water and 5 kg of food packed on my bicycle. Nevertheless, the landscape is a dream. The cold and dry air makes everything appear closer. Hillsides and lagunas are all vividly coloured. This must be one of the most beautiful spots on Earth! I pity the tourists travelling behind jeep windows and in a heated cabin. The experience isn't the same.

Laguna Colorada (4150m)

Ascent to Sol de Manana

Camp spot in a rock desert, 4800m

Short story about this camp spot: Exactly at this location my sleeping flies away with the strong wind. In fact, we just have laid out the sleeping bags to let them dry in the early morning. But all of a sudden the wind got much stronger and my sleeping gets carried away. It takes me a 3h search with with field glasses (to find the sleeping bag) and GPS (to find back to the tent) to get it. I'm lucky to find it, otherwise the nights at -20° C wouldn't be bearable.

Memorial to an unfortunate climber (5700m)

"In the mountains, there you feel free"

My second climbing tour goes up the Licancabur (5935m) at the border to Chile. But the day of my climb, there's a snow storm. All other days would have been perfect. Bad luck! Nevertheless, I get to the top quite quickly, overtaking a group of Chilean mountaineering guides (only 2 out of 20 will make it to the summit). At this point I realise how good the aclimatisation through my bicycle tour over the Altiplano has been in the last weeks. Down at the base camp, the guides and I share some hot chocolate and they tell me a lot of interesting things about Chile, my next destination. They invite me also on another mountain climb near Santiago, but I won't have the time in the end, unfortunately.

Summit of Licancabur (5935m)

Laguna Verde (4400m)